Indonesia

My road : Denpasar, Ubud, Mambal, Tabanan, Penebel, Jatiluwih, Baturiti, Bedugul, Munduk, Seririt, Singaraja, Kintamani, Kedisan, Besakih, Rendang, Selat, Tirtagangga, Amed, Tirtagangga, Amlapura, Candi Dasa, Padangbai, from 04 to 2008-06-15, ferry toward Lembar (Lombok), Mataram, Senggigi, Bangsal, Anyar, Sembalun Lawang, Swela, Aikmel, Lendang Nangka, Kopang, Praya, Lembar, from 16 to 2008-06-21, ferry Padandbai (Bali), Klungkung, Sidemen, Selat, Rendang, Bangli, Ganyar, Ubud, Mambal, Denpasar, from 22 to 2008-06-24, flight toward Australia (Coolangatta).

To my arrival in Bali, I spent some days in Denpasar, buying a plane ticket for Australia, it planned to 27 June. I give myself then 3 weeks to visit this island and its neighbor which is Lombok. At the hotel where I lodge, the Adi Yasa, I met a very nice manager who will keep me 3 bags during the time of my trip. So I leave Denpasar light, can ride easy, am going to Ubud to 30 kms to the north. I discover along the way the first facets of Bali, many temples, but the rice fields also.
Ubud reached, I am immediately disappointed by this place which is eaten by tourism, streets made for that, shops one on another, or restaurants dedicated only to this, no one seems local as I am in the habit of going there, wondering me where I can dinner. Fortunately I found to be accommodated in a small guest house, away from ressorts, with just a few single rooms and a garden of greenery, this place held by a nice family. Despite of this, with time in front of me, I stay here for 2 days to escape into the surrounding countryside, seeking to discover the rice paddies of Bali, I realized that Ubud is not the best place for that.
My second stage, not really longer than the first brings me back to Tabanan, passing here for the second time. Having put my bags, I spin towards the temple of Tanahlot, place renowned for its sunset on the ocean. It is a place flooded by visitors, despite all pleasant, but this is not the day for a reddish sky, clouds taking over.

For the next step, I come to the heart of the island, providing cross it toward the north before returning south. But I have little information about the route I want to lead, wanted to go to the village of Jatiluwih located in the mountains to discover his rice fields. Quickly after my departure the road goes rising but itself doing well, going easily, reaching Penebel after 1 hour and 15 kilometers. There was no need to worry, over the course is nice with mount Batukaru in front of me. Reaching Senganan, I stop to eat a nasi soto, typical local dish, with up 22 kilometers traveled. From there it only remains for me to join Jatiluwih which is the observation point of rice fields. The end of my journey give me to discover these panoramas, rice ranging from green to yellow. In the village I find housing in a small hotel run by a man widower, only occupant whom I am. After a rest and swallowed a meal, I go walking through the terraces, finding people to harvest, a tedious job cutting ears one by one. It is also a very quiet place, taking full advantage of this atmosphere.
The next morning the weather is beautiful, a great blue sky and the sun leaving its light effects on the terraces. In front of the hotel drinking coffee and eating small things with the owner, it is a first pleasure for another day. From there I continue my way to spin to Bedugul, the owner to whom I was having indicated me roads not appearing on my map. It is a route that makes me go through rice terraces and, sometimes climbing, sometimes down, a panorama regularly appearing to my my eyes, the valleys lower down, fascinated by this green and calm nature. At Bedugul I discovered the lake Bratan, but which retains me only 5 minutes, a place filled with tourists and has no attraction for me. At Candikuning, I'll just have a meal, not more attracted to this place, more the weather covering itself, while pursuing my road. Then I leave lakes Buyan and Tamblingan, discovering just the second as the clouds are low, the rain making even its appearance, that must take refuge at people during more than one hour. In leaving, the road is wet, and more down strongly, being careful not to slide. At the crossing of Munduk, I realize that I'm too late to spin down, finding refuge for the night and staying there. It is a tiny village, the night coming fast and the freshness falling above. Few things here, for what is to feed there are only 2 restaurants, rather called to Indonesia a warung. Where I eat, I am the only foreigner in an incredible place, small, old, with a lot of things piled up, and then served by a funny lady, friendly and great kindness, so I take pension. Munduk, I rest a day to discover its surroundings on foot, then the next day I make the descent to Seririt, always a road leading through beautiful rice fields. By having catching up the north coast I raise it towards Lovina beach, but going only to cross it, and continuing to Singaraja. Then it's my second crossing of Bali in going toward Kintamani and Mount Batur. I leave after a night which was without real sleep, the constant noise of the street with vehicles passing, and then the vociferus of the mosque being heard before the 4 o'clock in the morning. What makes that by standing up at 6 am, I'm glad to take the road. But don't finding to eat, I must go to ride until Kubutambahan. Here I have no choice, I need forces to attack the climb. From the beginning the road goes climbing, but it is done well and I'm fine, determined to climb it. In 2 hours 30 minuts I go 20 kms to be halfway, without really find panoramic views, this side of the island, no land or rice paddies. I found a nice stop to do, to revictual at people running a very small trade, but with a good food. In leaving, the road is less turning but rising a little harder, taking altitude and seeing the valleys. Shortly before Kintamani, I am above, can discover the Mount Batur and the lake of the same name. Then in Kedisan, I'm on the edge of the lake, staying here for the night. The next day, going towards Besakih, I take a route overlooking the lake, discovering it as well as the volcano in a remarkable way, and by sublime panoramas. Then I will continue my descent from so to join the south east coast, arriving at Tirtagganga. Coming here, I discovered the most beautiful rice fields of Bali, tiny plots flooded while taking blue hues, delimitated by green path, these colors mingling perfectly. It is an incredible place, one of the most beautiful in Bali, a place that I was fascinated by her beauty. Before continuing southward, I bring round to the coast and Amed for an also pleasant route. Then I take the route to Padangbai for the ferry that bring me toward Lombok island. This crossing, I do so with another rider in the person of Tjeerd from Netherlands which he left only 11 months ago. We choose to leave early, with the ferry at 4 am, these never stopping. That's Tjeerd who ring the waking, then in the night on our bikes we move towards the pier. But in the seeing, I told my companion that there was no ferry berthing, wondering if we did not rise for nothing. Then in the distance a light appears, it is him whom approaches. The departure is a little late, but we leave. For one crew member, we get a cabin rentals then coming to resume our night. In our waking, Lombok is in front of us. Taking up our bikes, we ride a small stage set up Mataram, while Tjeerd continues north. The next day I leave the capital for Bangsal to ride along and following a superb coast, surrounded by a sea of bright blue, I often found sumptuous panoramas. My destination was the islands of Gili Air that I will finally put aside. I am continuing the ascent of the west coast and then north, but which are without interest, with black sand beaches, or a poor country-side, burned by the sun. In the afternoon I reach the road of Sembalun, expecting a hard course to cross into the foothills of Rinjani which is the highest point of Lombok. After only a few kilometers I must to walk, stopping at the first village, staying there a moment with people. Then a taxi pick up pass along with 3 tourists on board, stopping it and starting with them. Coincidence, they are French coming here to clamber up this mountain. Seeing the road, I am relieved oneself to be with them because I was still a long journey to cover. Up there, Philippe Michel and Adolphe share with me their room, spending the evening together to talk about my adventure. The next day by starting, I am not to the top, I must suffer to get there but for a great happiness, a superb panorama, congratulated that I am by local people passing in motorcycles. The descent is quite also fabulous, reaching the village of Lendang nangka to stay in a Muslim family, discovering with this man the local agriculture. Since then, Lombok ends by returning to Lembar for a return to Bali. A final loop among the rice fields, a second passage in Ubud and a return to Denpasar to leave Indonesia and this time Asia to Australia. But since this new continent I choose to make a break and return close to my family in France, waiting for this adventure that continues to fascinate me.