Laos-Thailand-Myanmar
My road : Louang Prabang, Pak Beng, Houay Xai, border with Thailand, Chiang Khong, Thoeng, Chiang Rai, Mae Suai, Mae Kachan, Chiang Mai, border with Myanmar, Mandalay, Meiktila, Thazi, Kalaw, Nyaungshwe, Kalaw, Meiktila, Mahlaing, Myingyan, Nyuang U, Kyaukpadang, Magway, Pyay, Thonze, Taikkyi, Bago, Hlegu, Yangon, from 10-19 to 2006-11-25.
The Laos is almost finished, at least in his north part, I set off again Louang Prabang by boat on the Mekong river, this that will drive me to Houay Xai and to the border with Thailand. This is a journey that I already took 4 years ago, and something that I appreciate, meeting again at the calm, being able to contemplate wonderfully the nature that surrounds us. That takes us 2 days with an arrival to the night and a halt to Pak Beng. The next day, I follow with other travellers, not very numerous that we are, winning then my last step with Houay Xai. The following day, I have not anymore than to cross the Mekong to pass in Thailand, but beforehand I meet again in company of a band of Thai cyclists, making film and photograph from me. I resume immediately my bicycle, to drive towards Chiang Mai. The first difference, I must hold me on the left of the road, going away on roads better than in Laos. The journey becomes right away enchanting with a succession of superb temples appearing behind one another. Other curiosity, this is to find photography of the king in road edge, sometimes accompanied of the queen. Having foreseen my food, I stop under a tree to take in fresh supplies. It is then that a woman having tracked down me, invites me to take place at a table which she has in front from her home. Immediately a girl brings me a glass of water, then behind this is a dish of vegetables that I see to arrive. The Thai people are already solidarity with me. A little more far, finding shelter to the moment of a storm rain, a guy invites me to drink a coffee. I finish to Thoeng for the research of a first lodging, but the prices do not appear for me inexpensive. A girl that signals me to go to the temple, drives me in a first one, then a second, remaining there in company of the monks, attributing me a prayer room, passing the night under the protection of Buddha. While going out again to dinner, I meet a family, passing a pleasant moment in his company, loading itself to do me to taste new things.
My second step is to rally Chiang Rai, but before leaving I realize that it is more difficult to nourish me than in China, the rations are too small, and the people do not take conscience than I ride by bicycle. The road is easy but with circulation. On noon, the trip that I set up is covered myself, done halt for my lunch. I said myself while it is too early to remain there, and then I want to continue. Despite the hot one I set off again therefore by a 2x2 ways to advance to a quick rhythm. I come to leave out Phayao, to go towards Mae Suai. Of small bumps appear, but nothing mean. I some finish about 17 o'clock, trying to lodge. On a go and back in the town, nothing does not present itself, going then to the police. A corporal receives me and without no concerns authorizes me to remain there, winning me a meeting room seems it. I said myself that this is again a beautiful matter. I go for dinner, and to the return I prepare my sleeping arrangements, matelas and mosquito net for a night in all security. At the morning, this is several policemen that I have around me, curious that they are of my bicycle, doing me to offer tea then coffee. I then can prepare me to take the road, but without knowing even where she will take me today. Little before noon, I am in Mae Kachan, taking information with a merchant. This guy encourages me to remain there and to follow tomorrow, being said me that after I would not find stop for the night before a long distance. And behind that, this guy comes to say me, "tomorrow I leave for Chaing Mai by car, I can drive you". Having concerns with my mechanics, I choose then for his suggestion. Return you in the street at 6 o'clock, finding it already all active one with a started one up market to the night towards the 1 o'clock. At the beginning of morning, we are at Chiang Mai, this new friend, Winai, leaving me with one of its friends that holds a guest house. I have not anymore than to install me there. To follow I look about Myanmar, buying a ticket for Mandalay and asking my visa. Remains me to wait 10 days before to go there. This time I pass it to finish the small last things of my new web site, Denis being said me an evening, "I can launch it for you now, one there goes?" replying for him quickly, "go there". And in some seconds, he gave access to this that allowed you to read today.
On November second, I fly towards Myanmar and Mandalay. This is a quick flight doing me to arrive far city. I find to link to me Australians to take a taxi. We arrive to the night falling, it is all just one 17 o'clock 30, in a bumpy city, overflowing world, but also of all sorts of vehicles. The time to return my rolling bicycle, and I launch myself to the research of a lodging, finding on the way Florian, a German, and James, an English. First evening in their company. To the next day, my eyes can put themselves on Mandalay, city giving an old vision, by durty place, to the streets and to the sidewalks broken. After finishing to prepare my bicycle for the road, I immerse myself in a market, a lot of activity, to the colors abounding, the odors not saving the visitor. In the afternoon, I take my bicycle to be going to do the turn of the old palace, encircled of an unbelievably long wall, and arrive to the hill of Mandalay, but there climb does not bring nothing.
Discovered second of the region leaving for Mingun. For that I must rejoin the pier and the ayeyarwady river. In his edge, are moored all a pile of boats, to know which is the most quaint, men loading on board steel cans in so poor condition, me which request can be their usefulness. There is also children playing in a muddy water, women to the bath or doing washes out it, and on the banks of the living people in a constant inconfort. In 1 hour of navigation, we climb back up the river to arrive on this old city, especially marked by an impressive pagoda, that never was finished, a monster of roc. Of return to Mandalay, this is another pagoda that I will see, the Mahamuni, but this time sparkling of beauty, visited by many pilgrims. To my last day to Mandalay, I start with a market, extremely varied and animated, in at all sterilized conditions. A lot of products are at even the ground, the people treating between them crouch. The agitation and the go and back are constant, with that the taxis bicycle wandering. Of return to the hotel, I take my bicycle for an excursion towards Sagaing. On the way I stop to the bridge U Bein, an old construction in tek of an unbelievable length, not really fascinating despite the tourists there coming. I follow therefore towards Sagaing by a road all damaged one, there arriving for the lunch. This one finished, I find the way of the hill of Sagaing, and to succeed in a superb panorama, many stupas, small and big point towards the sky, in a dense nature, in side the river flowing itself slowly. While taking back down, I take the road of the return towards Mandalay, tomorrow I foresee to leave, I myself there must prepare.
On November 6th, this is therefore my departure towards the south and Yangon, rallying first Meiktila. The gone out of the city is vibrating by a restless circulation, that until the 25th kilometers. I must have the eye everywhere and sketch on a pile of vehicles. The thing while reducing itself, I blow, the road pass correct and easy. After 50 kilometers I win Kyaukse, done rice re-provisioning and of lenses, the remainder of the dishes being in the oil. While setting off I have again a long road to traverse. The temperature becomes hot, in front of to come to cover me the arms in order not to burn. The ordinary journey, did small cultivated bits or then of a vegetation giving the aspect of half dry zones. To the 100 kilometers, I envision to go until the 150 for some to finish to Meiktila. That will remain a long step for the first one to the Myanmar.
From here, my road is to go towards the east and the Inle lake. I get up not late to attack me to a step of which I have few information. Little before Thazi, the road finds flooded itself, putting me then question for the continuation. To this village, I done stop not knowing this that I can find behind. The journey becomes not easy with a road pass bad. To the 45th kilometers, one announces me the even amounts, me loud then to half way with Kalaw. Comes a small ascension on a portion broken, the trip ironing rolling, but not for a very long time. The time will become threatening with the storm that I distinguish to the far, leaving me finally to follow. To 90 kilometers, I said myself that Kalaw do not must be very far, the local ones announcing me the opposite. I knew Kalaw in altitude, meeting again me in an ascension of which I do not know even where it goes. The time darkens itself and the clouds fall. Feet to earth, a truck stops itself to my height, doing me signs to embark and leaving with him. To the back that I am, the climbed not some finishes, but especially rain arrives, strong and cold that it is, not distinguishing anymore nothing around me. The mist and humidity invaded the nature. I said myself that without this guy, I wouldn't came to the end. Soaked that I am, tremblings and crampes seize me, wondering me if that will finish. In winning Kalaw, the time clarifyes itself, doing me to deposit in the town. While getting up me, the cold one does me to stagger. Remains me more than to take refuge me somewhere. Two tourists stop themselves on me and take me with them, finding a French, David, that leaves me to divide his room. It is necessary for me a very hot shower to arrive to recover. Night rain did not stop, falling thick on the roof, me which request was going to be the time to in the morning. While going out the clouds are on Kalaw, getting ready me despite all to leave. David leaves also, giving return itself you to the Inle lake. The journey is undulating, brightened rape fields. After Heho, I descend in the valley, rolling on a long upright line going towards Shwenyaung, finding next the direction of the Inle lake, but also David, having undergone a delay with a crash of his bus on the road. It remains me more than to win Nyaungshwe, to install itself with David to the Queen Inn, in edge of the canal that done liaison with the lake. I then attained one of the places that I wanted to see to the Myanmar. I am returned on a tourist place, but really pleasant. At 2 times with David I go to discover this famous Inle lake. We accompanied for the first time by a Switzerland couple and at the second French. This place is fascinating, leaving early to profit from it fully, starting with it sunrise. We discover the first houses floating, passing to the breadth of the towns of fishermen. We stop on a market, not really local while being traversed by many tourists. While passing on another town, we meet potters and a carpenter doing wheels of carts. The continuation this is an alcohol factory of rice, before of done stop in a family for a remarkable lunch, people of a big kindness, take care for us, having for activity makes it umbrellas. We leave them to continue our discovery, with weaving workshops, then to see the gardens floating producing unbelievable quantities of tomatoes, and that on the 12 months. We return delight, the eyes a lot of happiness. One is said then with David that a second gone out imposes, setting off again with the same man, with this time a market Shan and authentic, the distillery, workshops working silver, the factory of the boats and of cigars, rediscovering the family of the past day. Return to the night falling for sparkling colors on this lake where lives a population really in harmony with water. Despite the pleasure to be here, I must leave the Inle lake and his region for done return by the same way to Meiktila. I return therefore in Kalaw, for there to do the complete way to Meiktila, by an unworthy, long road, taking to moments of the Africa impressions. West, I leave therefore towards the east and Bagan, rejoining first Myingyan. Of there this is by a sand track that I follow on 60 kilometers, but in an environment pleasant and nice, mixing with the local ones, having at moments of the views on the ayeyarwady, well often alone on this trip. I finished to arrive in Nyuang U, that is the nearest village of the site of Bagan. To my first evening, I meet where I lodge Jeffrey, a guy to the double nationality, American and Mexican. As early as the next day, I launch myself to the discovery of the old Bagan, crossing on the roads of the carts to horses taking a walk the tourists. The first pagodas appear to arrive on a big one, Htilominlo, for a beginning of series of photos. Of return on the road, I take my lunch with Toe Toe, a woman that proposes a buffet Burman, to be served copious and remarkably. I secure knowledge and gets along with this woman, explaining to her that I do, saying to her that I can concern her on my web site. While setting off again, I do not know too for which reason, she refuses that I pay, offering me this sumptuous moment. I continue my discovery by Ananda, among the most beautiful structures. It gave me to meet 2 young girls, the sisters, with Khing Shwe War already speaking well English, and Ei Zin younger than her. They look for to sell post cards, but show me also a Buddha lying. Too funny that they are, I invite them to drink a coca cola in my company, superb and funny moment. I spin next towards Thatbyinuyu then Shwegugyi to have straight to a superb panorama and my first sunset on this unbelievable site. Return by with Toe Toe then to the night, finding in evening to the guest house of the French remaining to listen me. To my second morning, I rediscover Jeffey on the terraces for the breakfast. A Burman girl is foreseen to come to rediscover it, he invites me to join me to them for again to leave towards the old Bagan by bicycle. While passing in his family, nevertheless very poor, one does oneself to offer accompanied coffee of small cakes. She drives us to see a monastery in tek, old of 300 years, then one goes towards the pagodas Dhammayangyi and Sulamani, structures impressive, superb, wondering how that could be constructed by hand of men. Take by hunger, this girl brings back us at her place, her mother having prepared the lunch. This one finished, I push my 2 friends to set off again, leaving to see Dhammayazika, can be the most beautiful monument, taking fabulous complexions to the sunset, the one here going of the brown orangish one to the yellow one now, a moment for some to take full the eyes, the sun going then too quickly to lower and to disappear. That we bring to done return on the sand ways to the night, the thing coming folk. I finish this fabulous day with Jeffrey, this guy leaving the places the next day. For me this will be the last one to Bagan, going to see the pagoda Shwezigon, and to rediscover me to dress of a longyi, this that the men carry like a trousers. Ironing with Toe Toe, I am done again guest to eat. I follow this day by Mahabodhi, Gawdawpolin, Manuha, and finishing on Shwesandaw. Last pleasure moment to Bagan with an ultimate sunset, being able to contemplate the whole plain of this place and to keep an eye on the principal monuments. Once more unbelievable moment, divided with 3 Russians from Moscow. Before leaving Nyuang U, I take advantage to escape me in the market, with principally vegetables. There is exchange between salesmen and buyers, under the eyes many tourists, being said myself that the local ones are not anymore at their place. I succeed in do some pictures, then I done return to the guest house, this is then the departure taking the direction of Yangon.
The first step, I do not foresee it long, by a road not very frequented. To several times the local ones stop me, finding to a place a who extract with a beef oil of peanuts and sesame. In afternoon environment, I succeed in Kyaukpadang, doing me to guide by a woman to find to lodge, but to every time one is said me, "no permission", driving me then to the police office. There one wonders me to sit and to wait, not knowing really if one takes cases of me. One is said me that someone of the immigration must come. I reply to the questions of the persons that are present, the time turning and nothing advancing. After 2 hours of patience, the position begins annoying me, but continuing to keep my calm, recalling for them that I have just need a place to pass the night, that to the next day morning I would not be anymore there. A boy that seems to want to help me, renewed to the first guest house, but one does not want not yet of me, despite several telephone calls. One wants that I done return to the police office to have an authorization. On the spot one wants again to do me to sit, but this time I myself there refuse, saying for them that rather lasted, that I want just this paper. Once more the time flows and nothing otherwise the night that fell, wondering me if solution it will have, the people disappearing after one another. My anger climbs, insisting then to see an officer. I fall on a boundary, a stubborn one, attains of a huge stupidity, peeling my passport and there taking long time, and to hear to say me "eject, now you go to sleep the following village". I do not there believe, all that after 3 hours of expectation. I want to bang one's fist on the table and to say for them that now that enough, but the things would become worse for me. I said myself while these people are suffering from a monstrous idiocy, intelligence not having them never touched, the anger inside me, wondering me where is returned the solidarity that one offered me in China. I do not take anymore keeps to anybody, in front of to fight to do me to drive to Popa, where I am foreseen to pass the night. But the thing seems impossible, while hearing them to say me," you can remain here", and to do me to drive for the third time to the first guest house visited. But at this place the thing again is not regulated and finished, the policeman done return to the post, in front of again to wait, and to contain me. It will do 2 round trip, for the second times to come back 2 people, this time being said me, "follow us, we bring you to a hotel, you can pass the night here". On the spot, one is again to take advantage of me with an excessive price, all that finishing after 4 hours 30 of a madness as never seen. This is all simply monstrous, done nightmare is not worse. The next day morning, I do not ask nothing and spins towards Magway. The road is not good and long, crossing dry regions such Africa, little populated, finding that an alone village on the way. On the spot, I find a man that recommend me to continue by bus towards Pyay, for the road is unworthy. I follow his advise, to realize me the reality. From there, Yangon presents itself just in front of, but without knowing where I will be able to stop off, and then I do not want to fall again in the galley of the past days. Got up very early, I leave just before that the sun appears. The road is ironed correct, glides, crossing regions to rice, advancing the head in the handlebar to 25 km/h. At 11 o'clock, my 100 kilometers are covered, not stopping me there, but continuing. One had talked about me Letpadan for the night, but disposeing again times, I roll with confirmation that to the next village I could remain without concerns. But not so simple, the alone guest house refuses me, but equally the monastery. This is while I fall on the immigration, not more intelligent than the others, wondering me to go 50 kilometers more far while I am returned to 165 kilometers for the day, announcing for them than in an hour it's the sunset. I see then no support, wondering me where goes I to pass the night, asking for them if I must sleep on the edge of the roadway. One finishes by to drive me to the police station, worried of this that itself there will happen. I fall on more tolerant people, looking for this time a solution. It is necessary nonetheless close to 3 hours before one accompanies me to the guest house having refused me, be saying full. Dinner takes, immediately I put myself to the bed, provident to set off again early. But in the night a row to my door awakens me, 2 policemen are again there, wanting again my passport. That's too much, I myself refuse, climbing in a terrible fury, not stopping insulting them, making fun of me of this that they can think. I am stunned, I do not there believe. Of single return, if I had been able I would have escaped in the night, fearing a new return, but I had to await 5 o'clock 30 that the day be about to appear. From there I win Bago, just fact respite of a day, then Yangon. My road to the Myanmar is finished, while waiting for my flight to return in Thailand. This country will not be the better one of my memories, China returning me in memory, having it almost to regrets.