China-Laos

My road : Jinghong, Menghan, Menglun, Mengla, Mohan, border with Laos, Louang Nam Tha, Mouang Sing, Louang Nam Tha, Na Teuy, Oudomxai, Pak Mong, Nong Khiaw, Vieng Kham, Viang Thong, Nam Noen, Mouang Khan, Phonsavan, Phoukhoune, Louang Prabang, from 09/21 to 2006/10/12.

So, I am to leave Jinghong, however, a pleasant city, feeling a little outside China, more quiet than what I knew before, and then on each side of streets lined with palm trees, an atmosphere which means that they feel more in South East Asia.
In leave here, I know that I am about to leave China, planning to go to away by a small rhythm, planning shorter stages to take advantage until the last moment, the border post, of this country which so much gave me.
On the first day, I ride until Menghan, only 30 kilometres, being for the lunch hour. But in the afternoon, I can basking in the Dai garden, crossing many girls very pretty. The next day, I continue to Menglun, slightly further, proceed in 2 hours 30 through a varied vegetation, crossing in first banana plantations, then rubber, and found in the upper part pineapple. It is a small road, taking pleasure to see it to slip away under my wheels, making stops to observe around me. The stage before the last leads me to Mengla, putting an end to the long roads of China, Laos felling near. A story that has been wonderful, although sometimes my journey was difficult. This one will be part of, to 3 times have recourse to walk and to push my bike, but a knee is painful. The Xichuangbanna remain a beautiful crossing, by a road only to me, because near run a highway, once again nature has been sacrificed. On the fourth day, I reach Mohan, this time I am at the end, hard to achieve!! Realize that this China, well I came to scour it, visit it with my simple bike, that it made me suffer physically, but despite that I like it. It is a country that left me memories like no other.

On September 25 th, for my last morning, China is in the mist and Mohan very quiet. At 7.30 a.m., my bike is ready, last breakfast with boazi and rice soup. Then I must to liberate me of my last yuan, making the negotiation with a trader. Agreement on the rate, I leave the women gather the sum. From the value of 100 euros that I change, I got a bundle of 2 cm thick, not knowing where to put them. Then at the other end of town, I find the exit border post, I must to appear to make stamp my passport. The formality is done quickly, then returning to my bike. I move until the last control, which is relaxed with the custom-officers. This time I am almost outside, I have to leave this country, but without having a final look for the whole China. Returning towards it, a raised arm, I greet it, announcing it that I shall come back.
The Custom-officer making me sign to go, I mount my 2 wheels for a new destination, a other road will open to me, this one of South-East Asia and Australia.
After 2 km, I can find the Lao post border, making my entry formalities. Here I am therefore in South East Asia finding immediately a difference by a circulation really small. Then I make road towards the nearest town, namely Louang Nam Tha. But Laos I already know to be came in the northern region 4 years ago. Indeed it is a country which left me a special memory because it was here, during this journey that I take the decision to leave for this long adventure, and now I can live it.
The distance of 60 km separate me from this city, the road is good, a pleasure to ride, and then calm has returned, not a vehicle, even if they are not many come to toot me, while in China for each of them, I got a howling sound. The nature is dense, small villages located very rudimentary. The kids continue to throw me “good morning” making my first meeting after only 15 km, stopping to see them and sharing a biscuits moment with them. Wherever I go, their little hands agitated. I finished to reach a plain of rice, Louang Nam Tha is not further, found the same that 4 years ago.

As early as the mornig, I do route to Mouang Sing. The road is not important, yet the place is visited,finding mini bus in shuttle service. The vegetation continues to be thick, and the kids roadside always there for give me start the local good morning with "sabaidee". I am leading a tour alone, which is not easy. But after 40 kilometers, the facility back, the road down again, and then a renewal of vigour is felt. In reaching the locality, I find me to stay in the same place as last time. To Mouang Sing, I found Nobu, a Japanese, previously found at the border and Louang Nam Tha. I spend 2 days in Mouang Sing, a quiet place, but which has lost its appeal compared to 4 years ago, a new market has been built and there are many fewer minorities. From there, I come back over Louang Nam Tha, didn’t stop me here, but continuing until Na Tuey for the night. It is a small village where I am shortly before the nightfall, finding with misery housing for me, every door that I touch, we makes me understand that there is no room for me. I finished to think that my coming is bad and that China would not have done it to me. I seek help from the police, but nobody comes. Finally, at the fifth attempt I get refuge for the night. Before the village falls asleep, I take a dinner which is welcome.
I am pursuing my road toward east, in direction of Sam Neua. I shoot toward Oudomxai, after lunch in the company of 3 young women from Vientiane. The weather is superb, blue sky and sunny. The first part of the trail is easy, I could supply to Na Mo, after becoming harder, having to walk and to push. I run in a nature where the clearing stands out, continuing to find small villages, bypassing valleys. I reach Oudomxai in the middle of the afternoon, trying to make change, but the banker puts it himself too much in the pocket, get it to the black market. Early in the morning, a nuisance back to me with a loudspeaker, in which resounds the local radio, this at 5.30 a.m. The night is as finish, waiting to stand up and take the road. I am leaving in the company of a young monk for a long ascent, leaving him on his way, continuing my progress by hot weather. The route becomes difficult having recourse to the walking, then seeing my journey with the time. Thereafter, it's still a succession of up and down, but short each time, being able to let everything to go and arrive on Pak Mong. The idea to continue came to cross my head, but the bike stopped, I realize that it's enough. The next day, I come to Nong Khiaw, for a first rest, getting a few meetings with Jennifer and Francoise, who are passionate for what I do.

From Nong Khiaw, I go away towards a few frequented route, tourists do not take this road, then trying to predict my stops, starting with a simple list of phrases in Lao for on occasion stay in the villages. At the first I cross, a young boy comes beside me on his bike and then solicits me to spend the night there. I must eat first, installing me at the small father's who runs the guest house. Just installed, a girl who has seen my bike, coming to me asking me if it's mine. She say me that she is also by bike, barely believing, given the region in which where I am. She is Japanese, started from Hong Kong. Then she stay there, going to spend a long time to discuss together, waiting for the evening and the dinner, the village falling asleep in the light of candles. In the morning, when I wake up, Yuki is ready to leave, taking the road where I come from. I continued on my side, having obtained from this girl information to stay the night ahead. New rising portion, by sometimes an average road but only for me. This region is a little bit the end of the world, the difference is large with the modern cities in China where computers invaded the younger population. Here nothing appears, occupations or distractions, nothing exists. I reach the place indicated to me by Yuki, smaller than yesterday, coming to do a round trip before finding a lady who propose to me if I want to eat. Satisfied, I am finally stay here, these people asking me if I want to sleep. In the evening, we served me a dinner, the food remains the same except that we propose me some chicken, the rest being the sticky rice and green vegetables. Meanwhile, a band of young people come to escape one moment in front of the television, every house is not equipped. At 9 p.m., everyone goes away, it's time to go to bed.
This road will bring me until Viang Thong, from here Vietnam is not really far. But I borrow the truck to make the buckle and join Nam Noen, and fortunately, because the road is mountainous, earth, damp and sticky. To Noen Nam, I make another leap by van, because the next town is too far, with 86 km, and without knowing whether I can supply. Then it stay to me one step more to get to Phonsavan. This region is in the guide books and booklets travel with the plain of jars, but the site number 1 is enough for me, I expected something else.
Now I plan to join Louang Prabang, and out to Laos by the Mekong River in going to Thailand. To Namchat, I live a new experience staying in a family for the night. Arriving here, I have met with a local guide, I found with him in this family, and immediately gave me a bed. We did not ask questions about who I was and where I came from. I told me that it was probably one of the smallest place where I stayed for the night. After my dinner, by getting back to this family, at 8 p.m. the house is closed by boards that we assemble one beside the others, the man saying to me, " we sleep ". The family took refuge in the next room. This is again a incredible difference with China, where some cities were moving a portion of the night, I remember these hairdressers still at work at midnight. From there, I was still a step up for the road to Louang Prabang and Vientiane. But not of the easiest, climbing onto long kilometers, but beautiful to go, especially if you are on a bicycle. Arriving at Phoukhoune, I met 2 cyclists, Arnaud and Stephanie from Switzerland Suisse, looking like me to stay there for the night, a place where few tourists stop unless to be by bicycle. They go to Louang Prabang also planning to make the road together. In the morning, it is up at 5.15 a.m., the day barely there and the town still asleep. At 6.30 a.m. we are ready to leave for a road long of 130 km, but without really to know if we are going at the end, because 2 long uneven wait for us. The road is picturesque, at times in the mist and the clouds in stay on the valleys. From getting to run at 3 brings me a change and enjoy me. A long climb leads us to Kioukacham, the fatigue is felt while we are not halfway. A good rest and a supply allow us to start in a descent of 25 km, reaching a river, and then, well back up. This time it's 15 km whom wait us, climbing them rather easily, and arriving in the descent to Xieng Ngeun. At that moment, we are determined to finish, Louang Prabang should be reach. We still have one last portion of 25 kilometers, a final bump to pass. Shortly before 6 p.m., we are there, finding again Louang Prabang so to say the same. We can blow and settle down after however exhausting day. Along the Mekong River, we can enjoy the arrival, and dinner together. Since I take advantage of this very pleasant city, which meeting other travellers, which Alain and Chantal that bring me back for a moment in France being from Rennes.