China

My road : Panzhihua, Lijiang, Qiaotou, Lijiang, Heqing, Dali, Weishan, Nanjian, Jingdong, Zheng Yuan, Puer, Simao, Puwen, Dadugang, Mengyang, Jinghong, from 08-26 to 2006-09-15.

So on August 26 I leave Panzhihua, my last Chinese line which starts.
After some hesitation, I choose to take the bus, because it is a long route and mountainous. Yet a Chinese was ready to do this road to Lijiang with me. Along the way, it's no regrets for this choice, the road is in altitude and for more than 3 hours the bus walk along stones acting as pavements. What I am happy not to be on my bike for once, it would have been worth to me a route on foot by pushing it. And then I can travel in the company of 4 young from Chengdu, taking advantage of their presence and panoramas. It is a long road, however, with a stop in route for revision of mechanics, but the journey will be able to continue, to finish very late at night. Upon arrival, Gugu, Rong Rong, and Xixi Zuzu take care to find me to accommodate, finding me in the old town to a couple of old people.
The next morning, at this place I meet 2 English, David and Geoff who stay also here. In the day, I can start the exploration of the old Lijiang, I cannot name it otherwise with all this maze of streets having difficulty to locate me there.
I can also get to know the people who lodge me, He Yan Fei, a wonderful lady, and her husband Tan Shu Qi. On the second morning, the man goes to fishing, only to return a few hours later with several kilograms of fish, and impressive size. Meanwhile, with this lady and one of her friends, I talk to them about my story, showing them my Chinese press articles. He Yan Fei, comes to tell me, "and Lijiang?". It had restarted, once again we wanted to make speak about me. I replied, "OK." As soon as the woman takes her phone and fixed appointments for the afternoon.
From fishing, David, Geoff and myself, we are invited to share lunch with the couple. By He Yan Fei, she come to call me Chianlima, my Chinese name, this woman coming to tell me, hey Chianlima eats, hey Chianlima still a little, hey Chianlima you have to finish. And Chianlima listen, eating and finishing this wonderful dish. I receive admiration from He Yan Fei, often the thumbs-up in front of me, having taken case and consciousness of the adventure which I lead after to show her a whole heap of documents and maps. But this woman is adorable, taking great pleasure to be with her, even though the language once again make barrier to us. But no matter, I am happy with her, giving and sharing time with her. So to say every morning by coming down, she is offered to me of little things to taste and to eat.
In the afternoon of August 28, the appointment has come, but to find myself in front of the television to talk about this famous adventure. David who understands and speaks Chinese, comes among us, in support of the wife of a journalist who teaches English. The time is nice, for nearly 2 hours. The people of Lijiang will discover me soon.
At the same place, a Chinese, Gao Ming, staying here too monopolize me, passionate about what I do, going to make me small drawings and leaving to me compliments on paper.

Lijiang was a place where I wanted to come. In the region contained the famous gorges of the Tiger Leaping. Geoff and David are also to go there, asking if I can join to them. We must go toe Qiaotou by bus, also with us Shifra an American and Náama an Israeli. That exploration is being done on foot by climbing a trail overlooking the Yang Tse Kiang which come to flow here. After 2 hours 30 walk, we arrive in a village to spend the night in a Naxi family, a minority in the region. It's a delightful evening, lost in the wild, quiet, away from the agitation of the modern and noisy cities in China, in a place that had entered in my dreams long time ago, that happiness!!! The next morning, everything is silence, it's wonderful, being able to observe the sun illuminating the sky, coming from behind the Yulong Mountains, also called the mount snowy of Dragon Jade. All this fills my eyes and embalms my heart, letting me go to the ecstasy, to the dream, to the imaginative, to the envy to go through this world.
All 5, we start our walk towards the gorge, often alone in front to be in communion with the nature, respecting it, observing it, admiring it. Then I make a break, waiting for my friends join me. Together we can exchange different things of the life. I find a new friend with Náama, which invites me to go to see her in her country, a new route will take place in my mind. We climb the trail, which makes us go up to 2700 metres altitude, then having magical views on the gorges of the Tiger Leaping and Yang Tse is opening up a path through, could find in some places very narrow, the mountain remained the boss going to restrain it the passage.
At noon we make a break to share a lunch and interchange our lifes. Afterwards, our walk can start, through free spaces and pure, often stopping to pick up the most beautiful images on my 24x36. The time is unforgettable and magical, it's a wonderful place. We see other walkers with Chinese, Polish, a Swiss, a German, an Australian, a French. People like us who are looking for escape. Some local people live surroundings, living of a small agriculture, going on foot, and using mules for carrying loads. Our walk is long, leading us late to join the end of the path that we are down at the edge of Yang Tse. But no matter, the time is to us, looking that the dream to be here goes on. At the bottom we find the French Thomas, the German Nina the Australian Simon, who are hiked together. We also find there, a brother and a sister from Poland.
The next day, we are back to Lijiang. I can continue my discovery of the old city, with the large charm of its streets paved with big flagstones by place, doubtless dating of for a long time. Its alleys, at certain moments, are lined with shops and gone through by visitors. Here reigns a charm and a peace, walk through its narrow streets, to get lost, cross some small bridges spanning streams, letting go here and there, stroll, observe, look, stop. And then at night, the city is magical with all the lights giving it a completely different appearance, taking rainbow colors, a charm staying present! From Lijiang, I have difficulty to getting rid of it and to leave it, it's really a pleasant place, just as He Fei Yan and Tan Shu Qi from who I’ll keep a great memory.

I therefore continue my road by bike to go to Dali. I am going to lead a stage of madness. Start at 8.30 a.m. in the morning, I will end shortly before 8 p.m. in the evening, after 145 km. The beginning of the stage is really rolling to do 50 kilometers in 2 hours and 5 minutes. But behind, will present a mountain passage, which will take me a long time, but climbing it on my machine, does not letting fall, taking breaks for recovery, then leaving again. Nevertheless I wait to reach the highest, which one is waiting, seeming to perceive it, then seeing it disappear. The road is going zigzaging, taking a turn to the right, to come back on the left, going up regularly, discovering every time the panoramas on the bottoms and valley garnish with a forest. The course is fascinating, climbing to the small speed, seeing me sometimes as an escape from the mountains. Finally, after a long ride, I can let go freely my 2 wheels, to thread laces in the descent. Seeing 2 cyclists in the climb, they came to cross the road to come to salute me. And curiously, they are French, Xavier and Nathalie, go away for several years, is going to Tibet, and then to make return towards France. In leaving, I am continuing my route in search of a point for the night, which requires me to ride longer than I would have wanted. I finished well tired, it was a long day. From there Dali is just to 20 km, making a stop in another old city, but do not have the charm of Lijiang. Leaving the old Dali, I can not distinguish clearly Er Hai lake, nevertheless an enormous area of water. Now I make road to the southern Yunnan and Xichuangbanna, but without really knowing which itinerary to take, it's mountainous, and I want to save me of miseries.
Since the new Dali, 2 roads appear to me to go to Nanjiang. I take the second overtaking a stream. But starting the weather is threatening, taxi drivers announce me it will not rain, but that's going up on 10 km. I reach the highest point on my bike, it’s going well, but the rain takes me. At the descent I am in the clouds. After lull, it starts again, putting me under cover, but not stopping, I leave. Around 1 p.m., I reach a village, not knowing that it is Weishan, then taking my lunch. I continue by pushing me in a valley, following a river. The course is nice and beautiful, slightly down, bringing my engine around 35 km / h. I am euphoric and happy!
Kilometres slip away at high speed, marking several times stop for the photo. By mid-afternoon, the stage is made, and finding to lodge at the first request. I continue to Jingdong, but soon left the city, the route goes rising and in laces finding me in several times with the view from where I come, and it is going to last about twenty kilometres. The route will go slowly feel my strengths which are declining. A the descent, in the first place I am supplies and exploring with a guy after my route, opting to follow a river, in principle easier. And I am going to be able to take back running ardently, seeing my meter slip away and posting me of 30 even 40 km / hour. With this the nature is beautiful and enjoyable. On a village, I found a cattle market, pausing me for a instant. On another I create eyes on me seat among the people to swallow a bowl of noodles. On the road I cross kids' bands pulling stunned eyes by seeing me to pass, throwing me nevertheless "hello", and not missing at no time to give them answer, what brings them to the laughter. Going on Zhengyuan, I fixed one step shorter, more than 100 kilometres, it's enough, and then Laos come near quickly, I do not have to get into a panic. But I finished with a knee that hurts me, tomorrow I should put to rest. From there, new hesitation of journey, the main road is mountainous we told me, and would force me to long steps to find stop for the night. By discussion with a man, and I will find guided on a secondary road, easier he said me, and shorter than the other itinerary. My knee seems better, riding again unremittingly. I am always on the edge of a river, which is auspicious. The road is good, may be the only one to borrow it. At times, I could believe in virgin forest, trees do not allow a free space between them. Few people live here, just a few small hamlets. At the midpoint of what I plan, I will stop swallowing a big ration of rice in a small village. Undoubtedly, little or no tourists went there before me, much less by bicycle, people seem happy to see one.
By touching Puer, I mark another step on my adventure, as I am to my 2 years and half of trip. The next day, I was travelling toward Puwen, leaving aside Simao, my last large city in China. I then supplies a big bowl of rice and vegetables, the daughter bringing it to me watching the utensil and myself, surely wondering if I can swallow it, but no scraps! I continue, making my entry into Xichuangbanna, the last district of Yunnan before Laos. The evening to Puwen, I mark memory of this new birthday, the 2 years and half , by a good meal, continuing to be incredibly surprised by all this, but very happy and proud! It is a real adventure that I live. Stay to me just to join Jinghong, it is done by the old road, the highway running beside. It is through a natural reserve that I am going, in an abundant vegetation and gorgeous, is another China who appear to me. A stop for the night in Dadugang give me to stay among the tea plantations. Other culture that I can find, it is the banana trees.

Jinghong, I am on September 15 th. This time my trip in China is as finished, after 11 months spent here to have rolled over 19 provinces, the country counting 33 all together (27 provinces, 4 municipalities, Hong Kong and Macao), all of this to reach 13000 km. A country that fascinated me by its diversity, its dimensions, its differences from one region to another one, its cooking. A country of an incredible welcome, and here I want to tell to all Chinese that I came to cross on my route, a huge thanks. Indeed, all these meetings marked me, leaving me memories, forever. I would like to mention the 4 truck drivers Zhang Guo Ming and Zhang Guo Lin, Hang Wen Bing and Wu Yong met in my crossing of Taklamakan desert, spending 2 days superb with them, Goulam and Razia receive me to their home in Shanghai, Zou Jun Yuan in Tongli, the inhabitants of Fulu, Ni Ren Li at Leshan, Xiao Jun in Chengdu, a boy out of the common and become more than a friend, Lee in Chengdu, Li Fangping at Leshan, Jing Hua in Suijiang, Yan Lei and his parents in Zhaotong, Wei Lancong to Pingxian, Chenli in Chengdu, Ma Tao in Panzhihua, He Yan Fei in Lijiang. All these people, but of course not forgetting the others, I salute them, having found with themselves some friends, having spent with them very warm moments, formidable, having lived incredible things, having brought me warmth and happiness, giving me every time forces and envies to go farther for moments so wonderful.
But today, even if I have to go and continue my trip, for sure I will come back for them, China adopted me and I love it.