China

My road : Wuhan, Yichang, Wanxian, Dazhou, Nanchong, Pengxi, Anju, Lezhi, Ziyang, Renshou, Jingyan, Leshan, Pengshan, Wenjiang, Dujiangyan, Chengdu, from 01 to 2006-03-23.

Wuhan delays me to continue with the snow which falls during 2 days and temperatures returned close to zero. Cold is present and to get warm inside, I am going to swallow rations of lamien, noodle soup with beef that I find among Muslims, the pleasure is tireless, delighting a broth without satisfy me so much the flavour is big. By the weather, the choice of my road worries me, asking me to make a leap to the south. But the trips are long and carry my bike is not simple. Therefore, I choose to continue with my idea, leaving Wuhan by bus and reaching Yichang quickly. From there I can embark on the Yang Tse Kiang the next day. It is an ascent for which I wait, without knowing really what remains 3 gorges. On the first day we arrive on a dam, thought to be on the famous building, and I will go wrong. In 2 hours we cros 4 locks, huge corridors, both by length which I estimated at 350 meters, the height that supports large rise of water, 20 meters every time. The handiwork is gigantic and not finished yet. At the exit of the last in service, I can discover it in its totality. But the night is now close and 3 gorges will not appear to my eyes, but may be they are already partly submerged. In the morning, I win Wanxian and back on my bike, the temperature is mild, going barelegged.
My trip restarted, but by a damaged road, Sichuan is felt.

But with the people I got surprise and happiness, such with those of Fu Lu. In stop for the night in this hamlet, 2 kids will try to mingle me, saying that they have the opportunity to meet a foreigner and speak English. Then they come to hold me company, going together to buy jaozi but frozen. To cook them does not interest me, but a lady who is here come just to tell me a semblance of, " come, I’ll prepare them to you." Direction her house to get in the kitchen, putting hand with her, what funny for her and all the people who were there. From the street and neighbors have come to see what was happening, children pointing their noses, and going to play with them. During my meal was still on there, trying to know who I was. By announcing that I was single, we were to introduce me to a girl. Then they wanted a photographic memory, making it at the photographer. This is a real series that we have come to make until with a Chinese baby in my arms. The children were not apprehensive, but wanted to come close with me, writing to them my name on a paper. Coming to draw for one of them a bicycle, small hands returning for a second waiting. The new head kept appearing, asking me if they did not pass the word. But the pleasure was immense, going to spend 3 hours with them.
In starting the next day, the children still slept while I mounted my cycle to go to see farther. The road continued to be difficult to grow 3 days repeated, in part my bike. I thought it was going to exhaustion, taking the bus again. It was without regret, because in the rain, and passing through tunnel road on the highway. By bicycle, I would have must to go through the top. The anomaly of a tire required me to stop. Barely installed, a guy with a camera on his shoulder appeared with a girl the microphone in her hand, we had called the TV, and for the discussion came an English teacher from the school. When finished, this man wanted to take me to school to met these students. On the premises I created emulsion among young people, and every teacher wanted me to his course. In evening, they shared a dinner with me.
From here my direction was to reach Leshan. I had to make new journey on a road horrible, forced to go by bus to overcome and get out, but seeing a nightmare for my bike. A second portion would come in the last step, the anger taking me in front of a truck driver who blocked me the road, and coming to insult him, let him know my discontent and its stupidity. In this passage so far, it is through a nature colored with yellow by the colza that I thread kilometres. My passages in the villages continue to fascinate me, but also to attract the glances and the approaches towards me, the Chinese continued to congratulate me.

Leshan will remain the gateway to my third year, and my 42 years. But it is also a fabulous memory, incredible, unforgettable with a man of 78 years, Ni Ren Li. In my first morning I went to the discovery of this city, to arrive at a place of relaxation close the river. There, a man, this man, under the gaze of passers by was the pencil in his hand, making sail it on his sheet of drawing. By perceiving me, our glances stopped one moment the one on the other one, offering me and offering him a smile, a sympathy. Liberated from its occupation, he came back to me, asking me to sit for him. I did not see myself for this fact there and was thus hesitating. Then a man speaking English came to tell me, "but it is without money, just for his pleasure and to offer it to you." So just for his pleasure, I sat down, letting him to make, observing him, continuing to cross his glance, taking to my turn pleasure to be with him. Everything was silence, applying to him, me waiting, people waiting that the sheet fills in. He carried finishing with chinese ink. Then came the moment when he introduced me to my portrait, proud and happy with the present that he recovering to me. We came to make memories photograh together. But this new friend did not want to stop here, he took out a second sheet, asking me to take place, this time working in pencil.
In leaving, he asked me to come back the next day.
On the second day at Leshan, I am going to see the Big Buddha, a little my reason to be here. It's a remarkable site, in a true nature, lush, where the promenade becomes relax until the arrival of groups. The statue is phenomenal to be the largest in the world, can be reached at his feet, and there meet itself really very small. I left the place when it is done invade. I am returning to the place where my friend lives. As soon as he perceives me, as he had announced it to me, he puts itself in preparation of his work plan, fixing it a large-sized sheet asking me then for what he is going to do. Then he makes me take place, up in front of him. I am fascinated by this man, endearing, generous, with great great, happy to take part of its pleasure. Then he brought me close to him, my features are on the paper, going now to draw my bike, and then the Big Buddha. Yesterday, I had properly announced me. The draft is finished, he said to me, "color". I do not believe it, yet he is coming to take out paintbrushes and gouache. Spectators are becoming more numerous, they are trying to know me, Ni Li Ren by taking care gaily with the photo of the passage of a Himalayan pass which I offered him. The afternoon is not finish, surprise, it is television that makes its appearance. China continues to be incredible with me. Ni Ren Li is always brushes in hand, trying to bring perfection dedicating the work by means of the other persons. The canvas finish, he presents it to me, touched whom I am by receiving something so memorable for my 42 years, being on the verge.
This day I chose to spend with Ni Ren Li. The 17 in the morning, my idea is to meet again him. By returning me there, I have the surprise in a newsstand to be with my friend on the cover of one of them. I wish to bring of what to share a meal together. I thus fuss to find the necessary, then gains the place which never he leaves. Face to face we eat our soup and noodles and large ravioli, the simplest which is but Chinese. All the both on our bench, we take a new pleasure in being together, this man continues to amaze me at the sight learn a rudiment of English. His pastime here never stops, yet he fixes to his drawing board the page of the newspaper and the article concerning me to make it legible to the passers-by. Today's pencils are at rest.
I ended up leaving my friend, and continue my discovery of Leshan.

In Leshan, I begin a slight rise to the north, I want to try to go see the mountains Quingcheng and to return in Chengdu to find 3 chinese cyclists. On my arrival in Dujiangyan, then I can predict the visit of this mountain. But my physical condition will prevent me, taken with a big pain in the shoulder, and then the weather is rainy. Then I resume contact with the boys in Chengdu, and my buddy Xiao Jun who tells me to recall that soon I will be there. I wait waiting to look after my shoulder, for the second evening to see mu buddy arrive in Dujiangyan. I do not believe it, he made the move for me. This is not to be believed, the boy has found a buddy to come with a car, and another who spoke English. Afterwards he found my hotel and then came to me, saying, "Hervé, you come, we go for dinner". I would rather say to feast with what has been ordered for me. It is a pleasure for the taste buds and a delight to be with these boys. And with it, he says to me that would have come the day before after to call him if he had been able to. The appointment is now taken for Chengdu, it is already anticipated my time with him. I let Dujiangyan with his visits to the exorbitant prices, feeling better, back on my bike and join my friends who wait me. I plan to make my arrival in Chengdu for the second time in front of Mao’s statue, having indicated it to my friend. I reached after crossing the town, and there I discovered Xiao Jun arriving in front of me. To accompany me, he came with his cycle. He found me where to stay, and then a dinner wait me to find again Chen Xiao Fei and Luo Wei. Chengdu do not leave me alone.