China






My road : Wuwei, Gulang, Tianzhu, Hekou, Yongjing, Linxia, Xiahe, Hezuozhen, Luqu, Langmusi, Tewo, Zhugqu, Wudu, Kanjxiang, Hanzhong, Foping, Xi'an, from 10-06 to 2005-11-02.
In pursuing my road since Wuwei, it will take away me to Lanzhou or very near, then direction Sichuan, and already represent a rather distant progress in China. Although winter is felt, I still rolling so to say every day, sometimes that must dress until hide the nose. But fortunately the sun is still present and makes the journey a pleasant one. The fun also comes from the nature of its changing colors, from the tone yellow, orange, pale green, ochre, reddish. In the fields, people are working hard to make the last harvest, or to return the land for a new seeding. All of this work is done manually, or with the help of horses or oxen. In the court of houses, it is the harvest of wheat and rapeseed, also without mechanical, but with the help of elements of nature. Once in the morning, going to take my breakfast consists of a noodles soup, I continue to mingle with Chinese, finding me alone among them, attracting the eyes on me, sometimes receiving the ear, "Fagoa for French" . In these houses, it is engaged in serving the people, they will begin taking orders and paying with the manager, then waiting at the front of the kitchen to be served. So each took a seat at a table, and it's a humement that the noodles are swallowing.
In carrying out my way, sometimes I manage to enter the highways, yet forbidden to cyclists, and to cover travel fast, at a speed of 30 km / h. And at other times, it is in the rocks and dirt that I find myself, if it’s not in a slough, for the clogged bicycle everywhere. China has many road works, leading sometimes to find my way through all deviations created, finding no intermediary between the finished and the yard. But behind the difficulties, has always pleasant with long descents of happiness, leaving my 2-wheel to free himself.
China is not easy to take one’s bearings and to find its direction, by Chinese writing, and by the lack of traffic signs, must have often appeal to the population, not always directing me on the axis that I want, to find me in the countryside, and this time seeing everything disappear, not a kilometer said, not a sign, not a milestone to know the number of the road. Despite this, it must still continue its path.
I am currently in route to Xiahe, a place that I want to visit. The step that leads to is long, but the encounter between 3 Chinese bicycle will embellish and make it easier. Four that we are, some are faster than others, especially my new companions traveling at little baggage. It is formed 2 teams, a fast and a slow, with pauses to gather together. I come at Xiahe with one Chinese, 2 others having difficulty following, one finishing by bus. It was under rain and cold that we arrive at the destination. But this course was superb by the nature surrounding us, with an Indian summer and well in China. These guys take care of me find housing, which is in the same place they do, in comfort and for a small price, to find everyone enjoying the warm and a good shower. The dinner comes, they suits me to their table to offer me a feast of Chinese dishes. To Xiahe, I pass a few days to discover the Labrang Monastery, the second Tibetan place after Lhasa. A remarkable site, fascinating, of a big beauty. The place is also restful, and allows to be next to the ethnic groups of the region dressed in traditional costumes. From there, I take back alone to continue my route to the south. This will be for one step, because I will make the meeting of a young American Booths and spend a few days with him. This boy travels recently in cycle and goes away towards Yunnan. Being with him, he gives me more, first by his sympathy, but also by his knowledge of Chinese that he speaks, he reads, he writes. To listen him, I have the impression that it is far ahead of me with the English. Then I can easily spend time with the Chinese, and deepen my culinary discovery. Together we join Langmusi, situated at an altitude of 3300 meters, the road leading passing several times the 3600 meters. At first pass, he made only 4 degrees centigrade. To Langmusi, it is cool, even cold after 2 days of snow, and wondering if it will let us to leave. This place was crossed, I leave the south direction to go eastward. I ride with Booths for 4 days by a wonderful journey, to arrive at Wudu. We continue to be around the mountains, streams, through many villages, surprising people by our passage, taking a real pleasure to ride. From there, our roads split up, and I continue to Xi'an. I continue to pursue a course tonic, but full of happiness. Arrive in Xi'an in a big city, the provincial capital, with a heavy gray sky above, clean air is no longer there, but rather pollution.