China

My road : Kashgar, Artux, Sugun, Sanchakou, Aksu, Kuqua, Luntai, Korla, Yanqi, Toksun, Turpan, Hami, Jiayuguan, Zhangye, Shandan, Wuwei, from 09-07 to 2005-10-04.

Kashgar especially welcomed me to restore myself, with necessity at 2 times to get medicines in pharmacies. My recovery does not come quickly, and every day, I must to give me an extra rest. Fortunately, there was the arrival of 2 guys, Rob and Dave, providing solace in the fact of being among cyclists. In the following days, it's already peoples met on the way who arrive in Kashgar, among whose Julien and Marianne. We are thus often brought to see itself, going with Rob and Dave discover the famous Sunday market. It is a strange place that we enjoys browsing, may see a lot of corporations, the most special being butchers cutting their carcass meat straight from in the street, and the cheap restaurants serving for breakfast heads of sheep boiled. The activity is in full swing, trade is present, each bringing its own products with a cart pulled by a donkey, the animals have their own parking during the market. From there, with Rob, we go over to the cattle market, to find goats, sheep, cow, donkeys, horses, each type being held separately. This is the domain of men, and transactions are continually, palpated on the back of the beast, we discuss about it, then it is the exchange of yuan. We return satisfied with our morning, it goes on another market advantage by a lunch.
Kashgar has collected several cyclists, but when leaving the city, I am only starting to the north, the others are going to 5 to the south and Tibet. For my part, it's a long cross-country to expect me before rallying Beijing, starting with the Taklamakan desert. It is an incredible vastness, by a road leading straight lines not to do away with flat expanses of the eye, not to see the outcome, not finding anything, before rolling stages often over 100 kilometers, then obliged to provide water supply, given the save up to find the next point. And then, it is also being subjected to wind, which comes from far, far away, which is rarely combine, but rather obstacle hindering me in the face or from sweeping me being on the side. The first step is too long, I am obliged to stop for the night in the middle of nowhere, through the desert to set up my tent under the starry skies. In the third day, by announcing me that in front of me there is nothing unless 200 kilometers, I do not take the risk of hurting me, furthermore than the wind is full east and strong, then I embark by bus for a saving route. The next day, after being left alone, I was on a break, a cyclist passes in front of me without a glance. I can recognize Dave, an Australian met in Kashgar, having taken the road before me. I join him some kilometers farther, he is surprised to see me there. We are pursuing together for 3 days to Korla. Here our roads split up, because for him his time is limited, and therefore has to use the train. By leaving alone, I know the first Chinese support by the people with whom we are at breakfast. Admiring they are, they charge me with provisions, especially by going even make purchases for me, people are struggling to realize cycling that I already heavy. So I continue to Beijing, probably without now finding new cyclists. But the Chinese meetings will not leave me alone, the memories of various people being made as soon every day. This will brighten my trip, in the midst of these major areas where I cannot make other thing than drive. The first memory is for Caoyinglan, a young girl who study medicine, which has been helping me in the difficulties of chinese communication. I therefore appeal to her when necessary, sharing a dinner with her, leaving the foreseeable future to discover something else, I was surprised at the end of the meal to be his guest. These moments are pushing me to continue, and every day I take the road, coming to feel better and better. I become again strong and effective on the cycle. My acclimatization to China is little by little, and I have to taste this new country. Another meeting that occurs, It is with 4 seismologs met at the same place where I stayed, that will invite me to share their table for a new feast which I could’nt benefit only, being once again their guest.
My road continues, I only leads, any cyclist coming to appear. I am always in the desert expanses, to find supporters sometimes when I am in climbing. This was the case with a Chinese tourist bus parked in a parking area. The people seeing me have come to launch cheers, then me go ashore to thank. Quickly unleashed is a photo shoot, people coming in turn next to me for memories. Moment moving among all those people who do after that let me not leave empty-handed. The next day, when I am about to finish my stage, is a man set to the roadside motioned to me to stop what I am doing in front of him. By the smile he wears on his face, it's nice to meet him. This is a Uighur who seemed intrigued by my bike. He seeks to dialogue, coming to tap on the belly and biting a finger, he invites me to eat something. For me this can not be denied, it is another chance to go home with him in his family. After releasing bread, grapes, watermelons and served tea, it will not stop me, eat, eat.
This first long journey will take me to Turpan, a destination that I expected but remain disappointing, even in the valley of vineyards. I tell myself that it is far from argued crossing the vineyard Nantais. These places are mostly dedicated to the visit of cars of tourists, providing no benefit to the traveler that I am. This is far to let me memories that the road and meetings can bring me, and which are totally unpredictable. I do not thus linger over this city, leaving it without having to visit all the sites, and take back my ride of cyclist for new adventures.
The desert is always present, wondering at what time and how many kilometers after I go out. Always hang on against the wind, and to cover long steps to find a point for the night. But the road is still too surprising to find assistance in times of hardship. I was still far from the end to my day, advancing with difficulty, and without anything around, or 4 lorry drivers and their truck stopped on the pavement in troubleshooting. Their announcing my trouble ahead, they immediately reported to load the bikes on a trailer. I took advantage of the occasion without being prayed. By their slower speeds, they would reach their destination late, too late for me, then finding me a place for the night, with the complicity of the police, even helping me to carry my gear. In the morning, I left for a correct step with 80 kilometers, having this time a point for the night. But this day will be particular, firstly by making me stop on the pavement by police from last night, on my bike they necessarily know who I am. Their support will go to give me some provisions, and let me encouragement. It remains surprising and fabulous. I continue to Hami taking breaks for lunch a few kilometers before, in a location where a police car was parked, hoping to obtain information from these people. New admiration for the way that I lead, by coming to make photos together. By leaving places behind them, I learn that they are paying for my meal. I just have to find a room for the night. But the situation will quickly switch. When I reach a roundabout, a voice comes to me, we call me. I recognize one of the lorry driver from yesterday, but from the second team, the one with whom I was not left. Immediately I advance on him to greet him, his companion appears, the situation is funny and unbelievable. They go in my direction, and propose to me to continue with them. But I planned to stop for the night. They come to mimic me a cyclist in trouble on his bike to get me to understand to go with them. These guys were really too cool not to follow, I therefore launches for a new adventure in their company for a long trip. As the road, I realized that they had much reason to take me, because it was only jolts, holes, stones, dust that we suffer, progressing at a walkpace, and despite it being toss. And all this for almost 600 kilometers. A journey that would have really hurt me, and I am spared by the goodness and kindness of those guys, even going to feed me. Each stop in a restaurant, it is out of question that I try to pay something they refuse, and once again, they let me sleep in bunk.
In the next day, we stop for lunch, leaving us then to 120 kilometers from Jiayuguan. It is always out of the question that I pay something. But at the time of leaving, the situation will spend even more funny than the previous day. Zhang Guo Lin makes us to wait announcing the near arrival from the second team of lorry driver. Yesterday, when I left, flew too fast, I regretted not having been able to greet and thank, and now without waiting for me I will be able to find them. At the moment they fall down from the truck, only laughs we invade each other. This time I will not let this opportunity to make a photo of this fabulous meeting. The road eventually lead us to Jiayuguan in the night. My journey ends there with these guys who are for me to use my bike to get me to stay. For this I ask them help, then they invite me again for dinner, saying that the chamber, it will be later. I can then enjoy a last moment with these 4 men to enjoy a huge dish momos. Then, they have no trouble finding me something for the night, helping me to climb even my equipment on the fourth floor. This time I have to leave them to each launching a big hug.
After a rest at Jiayuguan, and cleaning the bike, my destination is to continue to Lanzhou, to reach Xiahe, a Tibetan place.